Ben More Coigach & Stac Pollaidh – a gateway to heaven

Ben Mor Coigach forms the entrée to Coigach and Assynt, a land of mystical pointy mountains. Driving north from Ullapool to Ardmair Bay the imposing wall of Garbh Coireachan thrusts into view, an awe-inspiring sight, with the dynamic interplay of light and sea constantly reflecting the capricious atmospheric conditions.

What most observers will not comprehend is the crest of the vertiginous precipice actually forms a sharp arete that is merely the front man to a complex of tops beyond, crowned by Ben Mor Coigach, which lends its name to a convoluted massif. The summit may amount to a relatively lowly 2,438ft (743m), although when it stands proudly aloof amongst a field of distinctly independent landforms, altitude is of little consequence.

Before the roads were constructed, the mountain created a massive physical barrier to the crofting communities further west, access to them best achieved across the waters of Loch Broom, the alternative being a formidable path traversing steep, unprotected slopes above the shore. Long known as the Postie’s Path it was trod twice a week by the postman delivering letters to Achiltibuie, a distance of over fourteen miles by foot from Ullapool. Subsequently falling into disuse, the path had become rather sketchy and intimidating. Due to its significant cultural and historical legacy, the Postman’s Path has now been upgraded with better signage added, although it is still to be regarded as a mountain walk, not a seaside stroll.

The map can be zoomed in or out to change the scale

The work was completed in 2021 and carried out under the Coigach and Assynt Living Landscape Partnership Scheme, led by the Scottish Wildlife Trust, of which Ben Mor Coigach comprises the charity’s largest nature reserve. Paths on Suilven and Quinag have also been improved through this grant aided scheme.

Ben Mor Coigach displays many facets and it is tricky to recommend the premier route of ascent, as all inevitably compromise on at least one aspect of the mountain. The most frequented starting point is Culnacraig, attained by a long drive around the entire circumference of the nature reserve, which certainly affords an appreciation of the vast footprint of the hill and provides stunning views throughout. This also affords the opportunity to visit Achilitibuie and a diversion along the Rubha Mor peninsula to Reiff.

From Culnacraig there is the option to climb as many of the tops as you wish, although the standard circuit includes the four highest summits of Speicein nan Garbh-Coireachan, Ben Mor Coigach, Speicein Coinnich and Sgurr an Fhidhleir.

For a longer walk with a shorter drive, the ascent can be made from Blughassary, just off the main Ullapool road and can incorporate the postman’s Path. Finally, access is possible from the east end of Loch Lurgainn, though is mostly trackless, but does raise the possibility of throwing the rarely climbed outliers of Beinn an Eoin and Sgorr Tuath into the mix.

As viewpoints, all tops on the mountain have individual advantages. Let’s examine them as we make an ascent from Culnacraig from the western side. The steep climb to Garbh Coireachan is relieved by the sublime prospect of Loch Broom and the Summer Isles, with An Teallach rearing above the shoulder of Ben Ghobhlach. From on high, the Summer Isles are magical gemstones amidst the glittering waters of the loch. Your ascent may coincide with the mid-morning passage of the Ullapool to Stornoway ferry, which remarkably manages to steer a straight course between the archipelago of around twenty islands. Many were formerly occupied, the largest being Tanera Mor, which supported a population of one hundred and eighteen in the early 1880s when up to two hundred herring drifters anchored in the bay. Tanera Mor was also the last to be abandoned in 1931. Currently, the most recent owner is developing facilities on the island as a ‘global leisure retreat’. One hopes he has also found a way to bribe the midges to also make a retreat!

The initial summit is named Speicein nan Garbh Coireachan, the first of two Speiceins to be encountered, although its meaning remains elusive. The most plausible translation appears to be “little speck”, perhaps referring to these modest undulations upon the ridge, although if any Gaelic scholar knows otherwise I should be delighted to hear from them.

Whilst there, your attention may be more engaged with the arete stretching ahead, which is exposed and pleasingly airy, although without substantial difficulties. It leads all too briefly to the main peak of Ben Mor Coigach (frequently and interchangeably spelt ‘More’). From here the eye begins to be drawn away from the coast to the surrounding complex of the home turf tops and then on to the Assynt mountains beyond. The ridge has broadened here and a short detour to the right brings you to the secondary speck of Speicein Coinnich.

For some time, the jutting prow of Sgurr an Fhidhleir has made its presence known and now is the occasion to make its acquaintance. There is a just sufficient relative prominence involved to justify why it warrants ‘Graham’ status, in addition to Ben Mor Coigach. What awaits at the top is a magnificent spectacle, the ground plummeting from the edge, enhancing the lofty vantage point. The mountain ends abruptly in space, the cliffs dropping away almost beneath your boots, while beyond them stand the astounding skyline of Assynt’s inselbergs.

A straight descent can be made back to Culnacraig with the Summer Isles ahead for company, or you may add the extra top of Beinn nan Caorach before commencing dropping down in similar fashion to conclude an excellent walk.

For many walkers Ben Mor Coigach is merely the prelude to Assynt, yet that rather understates its own grandeur. It is a magnificent mountain in its own right, possessing one of the finest coastal panoramas in Scotland in addition to introducing the extraordinary skyline beyond. Few hills provide such an unforgettable first glimpse of the country that lies ahead. It is, quite literally, a gateway to heaven.

Worthy Rating: 84.5

Aesthetic – 28.5

Complexity – 16

Views – 18

Route Satisfaction – 15

Special Qualities – 7

STAC POLLAIDH

The Ben Mor Coigach Nature Reserve adjoins the Inverpolly Nature Reserve, itself dominated by one of Scotland’s most visually appealing mountains. Stac Pollaidh has been described as a petrified hedgehog, and whilst some walkers may be petrified by its spiky ridge, the reference is to the hedgehog’s spikes being as though preserved in stone. Perhaps there is a wizard of Assynt.

Stac Pollaidh is a unique mountain with nothing really comparable, even within the diversity of Assynt. It is astonishing to think that this whole landscape once formed part of an immense plateau of Torridonian Sandstone, before glaciers sculpted it into today’s extraordinary collection of isolated peaks. One can only praise the choreographer.

Although often described as a mountain in miniature, Stac Pollaidh just exceeds the traditional 2,000-foot threshold, so the title of mountain is entirely deserved. Having said that, few of those who make the ascent on the well-constructed path from Loch Lurgainn actually reach the true summit, because this does involve some scrambling. Most will settle for the saddle on the ridge and, maybe, the lower eastern top. However, none of this matters with Stac ‘Polly’, as the excitement of attaining the fractured crest is satisfaction enough. It feels sufficiently exposed yet intimate and is furnished with magnificent views. Nonetheless for those can attain the highest points you may add another couple of marks to the Route Satisfaction rating.

From the ridge, a circuit of the mountain can be completed and is recommended, although this path does cross some boggy ground. Many visitors understandably return by the outward route, having been drawn here by Stac Pollaidh’s glowing reputation and the countless photographs shared online. And there is nothing wrong with that either, as all who visit will leave richer for the experience.

Some mountains impress through scale; Stac Pollaidh achieves the same through personality.

Worthy Rating: 81

Aesthetic – 30

Complexity – 12

Views – 20

Route Satisfaction – 12

Special Qualities – 7